Lake Mutanda comes of age

Lake Mutanda, and the nearby Lake Mulehe, have for long captured the imagination of locals and visitors alike, but have never quite made it to the top of the tourism rankings in Uganda tours, when one was considering where to go, for a long weekend or for a few days of a family trip exploring the country side. It was always Jinja, or Murchison or Queen Elizabeth or Lake Mburo, Mbale perhaps with the Sipi Falls but few would take the trouble to travel all the way into the border triangle of Uganda, Rwanda and Congo.

Lake Mutanda ‘Those roads, no thank you’ was a common reaction I received from friends who do regularly traverse Uganda in search of new places to discover when I mentioned to them where I was heading. But truth told the roads from Kampala via Masaka, Mbarara, Kabale and then on to Kisoro are in a much better state today than they have been in many years. While there is still work going on at sections between Mbarara and Kabale, the Kabale to Kisoro road is fully operational, perfect tarmac and scenic like few others in Uganda. That road in fact was truly a reason in the past to shun Kisoro, especially when after a few rainy seasons the surface resembled a washing board, but no longer.

Thankfully that is presently changing mainly due to the brand new 75 kilometer tarmac road but in part also because of hospitality investors finally promoting their lodges, resorts and related activities to a greater extend now that they are more easily accessible. Electricity poles and installations have already reached as far as Nkuringo, and the Lake Mutanda area too is foreseen to be put on mains supply in due course. The road from Kisoro to Lake Mutanda and beyond to Nkuringo and Nteko is due for upgrading under a government policy to open up areas of key tourism potential but that of course will also benefit the local farmers who at last can get their produce to the markets. Additionally is added interest in this part of Uganda triggered by the sharply grown focus on the area among foreign visitors, those coming by overland trucks, back packers who often spend a week or more and who actively post their pictures on Twitter and Face book and write about it in their blogs. That of course applies to mainstream tourists just as well, who often fly into Kisoro – Aero link now operates daily flights from Entebbe via Kihihi – or reach in the comfort of their 4×4’s. Many of those have written rave reviews on Trip Advisor about the lodges they stayed in, the hikes they did and the parks they visited, finally spurring interest among the local expatriate community too who, as mentioned before, are always looking for other places than the ‘regular’ adventure and adrenaline activities of Jinja. When coming to the Kisoro / Lake Mutanda / Nkuringo area they can be assured of a place where they can get active if they want to and laze about if that is what they prefer. Whether they hike, boat or have brought their mountain bikes with them to explore the area, they will not be disappointed, nor will they be from their sun beds at Chameleon Hill Lodge with that breathtaking 180 degrees vista.

The locals, friendly as all Ugandans are, have a lot of lore and tales to tell about the lakes while the wagenis are of course mainly interested in the scenic value of the locations to take pictures galore of one of Uganda’s better kept secrets and the lakes and the hills and volcanoes around Kisoro town..

Among the foreign travelers coming to Uganda has the Kisoro area steadily gained a reputation as a must see location, and many indeed combine their visit to the Mountain Gorillas of Mgahinga or Bwindi national parks or the tracking of the Golden Monkeys at Mgahinga with an added stay at one of the lakes.

Lake Mutanda is located just 17 kilometres outside Kisoro, the elevation of just under 1.800 metres making for warm days and cool nights, never too cold and never too hot, allowing for a range of activities, on the lake and around it. The lake can be reached easily by public transport, aka taxis or the equally common boda bodas, though the road is rough from the moment one turns off the tarmac in Kisoro town and heads out into the country side. Visitors coming with their own cars are therefore well advised to have a second spare tyre in the boot or bring repair kits for their mountain bikes, should they intend to ride those over the rocky roads leading up to the lakes.

The rewards for visitors are those magnificent vistas from higher elevations, marked by the islands of Lake Mutanda against the backdrop of the Virunga volcanoes Sabinyo, Muhavura and Mgahinga.

I was on this trip coming from Nkuringo after first hiking across Bwindi and exploring the forests and hills to and from Nteko and Lake Mutanda was the next key stop on my tour of South Western Uganda and another eye opener it was to become.

I will write separately about the new Chameleon Hill Lodge I found perched on a ridge high above the lake, coming suddenly into sight like a castle in the air, but for now let it suffice to say it is arguably Uganda’s most colourful, quirkiest and funkiest lodge I have seen yet and at a location where the proverbial million dollar view has surely turned into the billion dollar view.

From the lofty heights of Nkuringo, the road gradually made its way towards lower elevations as it hugged its way tightly to the mountain sides before reaching Kisoro down in the valley. Through small farms terraced into the steep hills, little villages and plenty of homesteads, this being one of Uganda’s most intensely farmed and populated areas, the road snaked from one steep corner to the next and drivers surely need to take care and not go too fast, though the road conditions will not really allow for that.

Especially in the morning hours, the valleys below are often ‘boiling’ with fog and mist, making for impressions which will last a lifetime when one comes from higher up only to witness such spectacles of nature in the early hour after sunrise.

Hikers with guides – absolutely recommended – or without guides – not so recommended – find it easy going downhill, probably steeled already by the experiences of previous days when they had to scale the escarpments and steep paths while hiking and the few boda bodas and pickup trucks, besides an occasional 4×4, pose no real problems when strutting along what on maps appears to be a major road but in reality remains an often deeply rutted challenge to drivers and cars.

A fork in the road, some kilometres from Nkuringo towards Kisoro, without any sign posts for that matter, gives one the choice to go on directly – using the left – or else hike via Lake Mutanda – using the ‘right’ branch – the latter direction leading through patches of forest, sambas and wetlands on the bottom of the often steep valleys, with not a single car passing until the lake came into sight. Birds aplenty can be seen while walking, something often lost when sitting in a car, and the fresh air carries an occasional whiff of wood smoke, a pointer to a nearby homestead where the main meal of the day is being prepared. When Lake Mutanda finally comes into sight, hikers will get their reward on sunny days, as behind the lake the distant volcanoes are visible, making for an awe inspiring sight. The lake itself is dotted with islands which are worth exploring and canoes are available at a reasonable cost, and recommended as long as they carry life vests for their passengers. Again, bird sightings are the main feature of course, especially along the main shores of the lake where reed grass provides a perfect nesting and foraging environment for our feathered friends.

Motor boat options are now available to traverse the lake but nothing beats the almost silent way how the canoes are floating across the waters, the only sound being the boatman’s paddle being used, or the calls of birds of prey above, seeking to take advantage of birds being startled by the canoe approaching and flying up from their hiding places in the reed grass to see what is going on.

Wherever one chooses to stay, at one of the resorts right on the lake, the eco tourism centre or as far as Kisoro itself, where plenty of options are now available, offering 1 to 3 star hotels and even non star rated accommodation which serves those travelling at the tightest shoe string budget, access to these trails and tours is now available to all visitors. These excursions and hikes, lasting from a few hours to a full day, are covering both Lake Mutanda and Lake Mulehe. Seasoned hikers however also have the options to discover the trails of the Virunga volcanoes on the Ugandan side, starting with Mgahinga where Nkuringo Walking Safaris offers tailor made trips or else make their way up to Muko and Lake Bunyonyi along yet more scenic winding roads as long as they have a few days to spare for such multi day trails. Kjong Safaris organizes such hikes as well as boat trips on Lake Bunyonyi, which opens up the amazing, and at times baffling history of that area.

The Eye, in its printed version has a range of accommodation options listed for visitors to the area, but information is now also available when simply googling Kisoro or Lake Mutanda and where links to Mgahinga National Park also give added information about the wider Kisoro area.

Those going to this part of the country should also know that not all phone networks have constant coverage and anyone bringing a USB modem to get connected through tablet or laptops, unless in Kisoro itself, can have a rude awakening. Some networks in fact jump to expensive roaming services of their sister networks in Rwanda or even Congo and getting wireless connectivity – as long as a signal actually can be captured which depends on location – is normally the better bet through smart phones compared to the use of USB modems. Those often at best get that notorious green light, indicating a slow Edge or GPRS connection but rarely get into the high speed range, if they can hook up at all.

And one final tip, do not leave Kisoro without buying some locally produced organic honey. A bee keepers’ cooperative is now marketing different types of honey, from the forests as well as the more open areas around Kisoro and in their shop even bee wax candles can be bought. Kisoro honey is arguably Uganda’s finest and any purchase will bring money directly to the rural folks allowing them to improve their lives.

After two recent trips to this part of Uganda I certainly once more fully appreciate that Uganda is indeed The Pearl of Africa.

Kyambura Gorge the valley of the apes

The gorge is densely forested and home of many apes including chimpanzees, Viewing Kyambura Gorge from above, one may think there is nothing more than shrubs in a valley. But brave the slope down and your eyes will be treated to nature’s hospitality.

Kyambura Gorge is to the north east of Queen Elizabeth National Park and is 100 meters deep. The width varies at different points. The sounds of different wild animals and birds, in the trees and in the water, sprinkle the air with rare music. On top of being a home to chimpanzees, there are other primates to be found here, including red-tailed monkey, black-and-white Columbus and vervet monkeys. One can also see hippos and large hogs. River Kyambura snakes its way through the bottom of the valley that is framed by different species of trees over 100 years old.

Some trees’ roots have grown so big and elaborate that they appear like gnarled wooden boats, while others lie on the ground, having started their decay process right where they fell years ago.

The dry season left much of Queen Elizabeth National Park parched, but this beautiful gorge is the much needed oasis, both for animals seeking refreshment, and for humans, seeking a sight for weary eyes. Water flows from rocks and makes the gorge green. Rocks that seem to be in various states of tumbling stand out, probably where they rolled to a stop thousands of years ago when the volcano threw them up in a violent shake. Kyambura Gorge is sometimes called the Valley of Apes.

Writer with UWA guides

Tourists who fear to traverse the gorge view it from the top. Braver souls hike down via well beaten tracks, with or without the help of a tour guide. Bird watchers would love it here. In this paradise, winged beauties fleet from tree to tree, from water surface to hidden nest in their daily errands.

“There are a lot of different eco-systems in this gorge which need to be conserved,” says Nelson Guma, the Queen Elizabeth national park area conservation manager.

The crested crane dances to your tune

Uganda is a birding paradise, attracting thousands of tourists every year. Each week, we will feature a different bird in this section. Today we look at the Grey Crowned Crane

The grey crowned crane is Uganda’s national bird, falsely called the crested crane. It has a majestic walk and is usually calm and friendly. It attracted then governor of Uganda, Sir Frederick Jackson, in 1893 to seek permission to make it an emblem for the Uganda protectorate by embellishing it on the Union Jack.

The reply from Great Britain to his request read thus: “His Majesty (George V) has approved of the golden crested crane being likewise adopted as the badge to be inserted on the flags flown by the governor of Uganda and all vessels belonging to the protectorate government.” Its crown has the three colors also found on the national flag — Black, Yellow and Red.

There are 16 different species of cranes in the world. Four are in Africa, including our national bird. The grey crowned crane is endangered. It is losing its habitat and people use it for witchcraft. Crowned cranes eat grass, seeds, insects, fish, and small reptiles. Crowned cranes are monogamous and pair for life. They have elaborate courtship performances, dancing and making love-calls to attract partners. Did you know that some cultures rely on the cranes to tell the time of the day? Like cocks, they make calls at specific times. Cranes have the ability to dance when people clap and sing.

They breed in swamps but unfortunately, their breeding grounds are diminishing due to rampant wetlands reclamation in Uganda. Nature Uganda estimates that the numbers of grey crowned cranes in Uganda have reduced from more than 70,000 in the 1970s to less than 10,000 in 2011. If drastic steps to protect them are not taken, the crowned cranes might.

Total Solar Eclipse November 3rd 2013 in Uganda.

The final event of 2013 is the most interesting eclipse of the year. It is one of the rare hybrid or annular/total eclipses in which some sections of the path are annular while other parts are total. The duality comes about when the vertex of the Moon's umbral shadow pierces Earth's surface at some locations, but falls short of the planet along other sections of the path. The unusual geometry is due to the curvature of Earth's surface that brings some geographic locations into the umbra while other positions are more distant and enter the antumbral rather than umbral shadow. In most cases, the central path begins annular, changes to total for the middle portion of the track, and reverts back to annular towards the end of the path. However, November 3 eclipse is even more unique because the central path to begins annular and ends total. Because hybrid eclipses occur near the vertex of the Moon's umbral/antumbral shadows, the central path is typically quite narrow.Curving reaches the western border of Uganda, Sweeping over northern Kenya, the path crosses Lake Turkana. This is the 23rd eclipse of Saros 143, the series began on 1617 Mar 07 with a string of 10 partial eclipses. The first of 12 total eclipses occurred on 1797 Jun 24. The 2013 event is the first of 4 hybrids of the series before transitioning to pure annular eclipses beginning 2085 Dec 16. The series ends with a set of 20 partial eclipses the last of which occurs on 2897 Apr 23. In Uganda the Total Solar Eclipse passes November 3rd and the best place to be is just outside of Murchison Falls National Park  for this once in hundredth of year’s natural occurrence Murchison falls

KJONG SAFARIS AT KIDEPO VALLEY NATIONAL 50YEARS

Kjong safaris was among the members of the private sector that attended 50 years of Kidepo Valley National Park  since 1962 making it the Oldest National Park in Uganda.

The hammer kop, Uganda is a birding paradise

Uganda a birding paradise , attracting thousands of tourists every year. Every week, we will feature a different bird in this section.Today we look at the hammer kop

The hammer kop is a medium-sized wading bird found in wetland habitats in Africa, south of the Sahara,Madagascar and coastal southwest Arabia. In Uganda, it is found along water bodies and wetlands.  It is also known as the hammerhead stork or anvil head. Its curved bill and crest at the back looks like a hammer, hence its name.  There are two sub-species, with one being smaller and darker.

Hammerkops are mostly silent, except when in groups. They hold ceremonies of up to 10 birds, in which they run circles around each other, calling loudly, raising their crests and fluttering their wings. Another behaviour is false mounting, in which one bird stands on top of another and appears to mount it.  They build huge nests near a water source. The strong nests can be made with thousands of sticks and mud to strengthen the walls and plaster the neat, tunnelled entrance. The birds decorate the outside with bright objects.

The tunnel leads to a chamber big enough for the parents and the nestlings. Hammerkops construct three to five nests per year and hold noisy house-warming parties for new nests. But often, they end up being evicted from their homes by owls and eagles. They eat fish, shrimp, insects and rodents.

CLASSIFICATION
•    Binomial name: Scopus
•    umbretta
•    Kingdom: Animalia
•    Phylum: Chordata
•    Class: Aves
•    Order: Pelecaniformes
•    Family: Scopidae
•    Genus: Scopus
Species: Umbretta

There lives a healing ghost on a tree

By Harriet Birungi

The leaves rustle overhead and a gentle breeze can be felt. The ground is covered by lush green vegetation, the middle eaten away to expose a dark shade of brown ground from which a thick, old tree with large buttress roots (forming nooks and fissures) juts out. This is home to Nakayima’s shrine, a priestess who died over 500 years ago. It is believed that Nakayima used to cure people of ailments from this hill and when she died, her spirit remained on the hill, from where she continues to treat and bless people who pay her homage. And indeed, if the numbers of people who flock this place are anything to go by, Nakayima’s spirit lives on.

A group of people, all clad in white, move from one buttress root compartment to the other in what I am told is an act of submitting prayer requests. Each person who completes a prayer, makes dainty steps backwards with their hands feeling for the edge of the root.  Denis Semuli, an employee of Mubende Town Council, who also doubles as my guide, interjects my thoughts: “They are not supposed to turn their back to jajja.

Turning your back means you are leaving. You cannot leave until you return to the main entrance, which is the starting point for the prayers. You only return there after you have been to all the compartments.  “Once you are done praying, you are not supposed to wave goodbye. You simply walk away slowly,” Semuli explains.  He is quick to add that all the 18 compartments must be visited and at each, a different prayer said. This is because each part of the buttress root is tasked to a particular need.

He says it does not mean people come with only 18 needs, you say whatever you want, depending on the most pressing.  Like all things sacred, the Nakayima tree is guarded. Semuli says you cannot proceed unless you have declared your intentions to the caretakers. After you have made your intentions known, you are guided on how to proceed.

Worshippers at the Nakayima tree. The tree is said to grant prayers to those who pay homage to the spirit of the fallen priestess

There is an old lady wearing a headscarf, who directs believers on where to start, how to behave and what to leave at each buttress compartment. You must also reveal the clan you belong to.  For each buttress compartment you get to, you leave coffee beans and money. The money has to be in coin form. Four coffee beans are left at each prayer point.

Currency notes are a reserve for the basket at the entrance. The starting point is the wider opening of the 18 compartments, which also looks out to the road leading to the hill. Common prayer requests include riches, a marriage partner, ability to conceive, conception of twins, freedom from disease, trips abroad, employment and provision.  “There is no limit to how long one can stay.

People are free to come here anytime they want. There is no restriction on arrival time and duration. You may stay as long as you want or as long as the spirit has directed,” Semuli says.  He adds: “There are instances where people stay for weeks.

For those who choose to stay longer than a day, the green grass in front of the main tree becomes their home.  “The belief is that by the time one treks to the hill, they have chosen not to sleep in a house. Their problems are overwhelming,” he says.  “So come rain or shine,” says Semuli, “They have to brave the weather. Usually, they set fires to evoke other gods of Buganda like Kiwanuka, Kalisa, Mukasa and Kibuuka, for additional blessings.

Semuli clarifies that the tree does not reward those praying for evil to befall their enemies. “Rather, you pray for what you do not have. Thanksgiving can be expressed through leaving foods like meat, milk and fruits, which are prepared and served to people in the area and those there to pay homage,” he says.

  As I absorb all the information, my thoughts are interrupted by movement. I look on in bewilderment as the small black milk gourds at the entrance and jerrycans of milk, are carried off by hungry residents in the area. Children proceed to different buttress compartments looking for the coins left behind, while a congregation of adults and children sit in the tree shades, waiting for the buffet (thanksgiving meat) to be served.

Amid all this, Semuli chips in, cutting my thoughts short, to state that the trees surrounding the Nakayima tree are grandchildren of the dead priestess.  The Nakayima tree is up a hill that overlooks Mubende town. The hill rises 213 metres above the surrounding terrain to a peak of 1,480 metres above sea level. The hill provides an excellent view of Mubende town and the surrounding area. The tree is visited by people paying homage to matriarch Nakayima of the Bachwezi. They were believed to be demi-gods, whose dynasty ruled large parts of Uganda

Unforgettable holiday out in the wilderness

Wild Waters Lodge A few consultations with friends led a couple to one of the most unforgettable getaways in Uganda. The bride shares some of the fascinating things about their rendezvous in the wild.

The arrival

The drive to Kayunga where we were to take a boat did not prepare us for the amazing weekend ahead. However, the reception we got from the staff at the Wild Waters Lodge set a good beginning for an unforgettable honeymoon.

Blown away by nature

Everything is curved out of nature right from the furniture to the décor. This was very amazing. Having been built in the wilderness, we felt quite close to nature. A couple of times we saw monitor lizards and once we saw a small snake. However, rather than it being a scary experience, it was pretty exciting for my husband and I.

Being in the middle of a river also makes one feel like they are in the middle of nowhere where they can inhale the fresh air and leave the worries of the world behind them.
Except for the roar of the waterfall, the environment is serene.

Cozy rooms

One thing I will forever remember is the bath tub. It is such an amazing piece of art that I came back home hoping to imitate the design. Likewise, the rooms are beautiful and comfortable; they create an aura of romance. I would have loved to stay longer than the two nights we spent, but well one cannot have everything they desire. While there are a number of activities at the lodge, we never did much but enjoy the comfort of our room and surrounding. The food was continental cuisine which we enjoyed very much.
I felt contented that we never had to fly out of Uganda to enjoy the delights of a getaway. This proved to be a much cheaper honey moon that we had anticipated as each night cost us 360$ (Shs900,000) full board.

Ngamba gets Trip Advisor Certificate of Excellence

Uganda’s renowned Chimpanzee Sanctuary island, Ngamba, has narrowly missed getting a full 5 star rating by Trip Adviser, when they earned their Certificate of Excellence for 2013.

ChimpSanct_02Home to over 40 chimps for the past 15 years, most rescued from illegal traders or found at the airport attempting to smuggle them out of the country, the island is near reaching its capacity and efforts are underway to secure a second island for the same purpose, to create another safe home and environment for the animals.

Visitors are able to see the chimps while being fed, as well as interacting in the forest or open glades, giving an insight into chimp life for those unable to track them at for instance Kyambura Gorge or Kibale Forest, among several other locations across Uganda where chimps can be found with relative ease.

Daily trips are available for visitors keen to see mankind’s closest relative in nature, leaving from the Entebbe pier and those interested to spend a night on the island, a tented safari camp is available for bookings. Congrats to Lilly Ajarova, Executive Director of Ngamba Island and her committed team of staff, researchers and handlers.